خلاصة:
کشور ایران مانند بسیاری از کشورهای درحال‌توسعه در معرض تهدیدهای زیست‌محیطی قرار دارد. با توجه به نقش مهم زنان در مدیریت منابع پایدار در خانواده، با نیم‌نگاهی به حضور پررنگ آن‌ها در جامعه و همچنین سهم فعلی‌شان در نظام آموزشی کشور، توانمندسازی آنان در بحث توسعۀ پایدار و طراحی پوشاک برای آن‌ها براساس معیارهای محیط‌زیستی، حائز اهمیت است. هدف از این پژوهش این است که با استفاده از ضایعات کشاورزی برای رنگرزی و زائدات پارچه‌ها در طراحی و دوخت پوشاک اجتماعی زنان یعنی مانتو، متناسب با زیرساخت‌ها و امکانات موجود در کشور و با تکیه بر فرهنگ اصیل گذشته در جهت توسعۀ پایدار گامی برداشته شود. در پژوهش حاضر با روش توصیفی-پیمایشی، کنش رفتاری و ذهنیت مصرف‌کنندگان نسبت به مؤلفه‌های طراحی از طریق پرسشنامه در میان دختران دانشکدۀ هنر دانشگاه سمنان ارزیابی می‌شود. حجم نمونه 102 نفر است که با روش نمونه‌گیری تصادفی ساده انتخاب شدند. نتایج نشان داد همۀ مؤلفه‌های مانتوهای طراحی‌شده به غیر از مؤلفۀ اندامی‌بودن، توسط جامعۀ آماری پذیرفته شده و میزان آگاهی دختران از اصول توسعۀ پایدار پوشاک، بر میزان رضایتمندی آن‌ها از طراحی‌های انجام‌شده اثر مثبت دارد. این موضوع ضرورت برنامه‌ریزی بیشتر در این زمینه را نشان می‌دهد.
The world bank estimates that almost 20% of industrial water pollution is caused by textile industry. Chemical dyes have used in dyeing industries once they have good fastness properties, are resistance, and show wide range of color shades. Considering the environmental concerns, these colorants have certain disadvantages such as they are toxic, non-degradable, and carcinogenic. On the other hand, fabric and clothing industries are major sources of environmental pollution especially in developing countries such as Iran. The mass consumption of clothing and also their common methods of design and production have led to increased environmental pollution due to the disposal of vast amounts of non-biodegradable wastes, ultimately faced the country with several problems. As a result, new approaches are going to be developed to renewing the use of scrap and waste materials in clothing production aimed at safeguarding the environment. The use of waste agricultural dyes is also an environmentally friendly alternative, since they are non-carcinogenic, less toxic, biodegradable, and produced by cleaner production processes. The question that arises is whether clothing design and production processes can be improved based on the facilities of the country in accordance with the sustainable development principles. It appears that empowerment of women in sustainable development topics can be an ideal solution for achieving this goal. What support this idea is the women impact on the sustainable source management, social communication, and the country’s education system. The purpose of the current research is to design and produce the women social clothing by using the fabric scraps and agricultural waste dyes. In terms of the type of study and in terms of the practical purpose, the method of present study is a descriptive-survey way and its purpose is an "applied" one. The instrument used for data collection was a questionnaire. In this way, this work was produced four women social clothing by dying the fabrics with chamomile colorant and the peels of pomegranate, walnut, and onion and also by using the fabric scraps. The reflection of this design method was examined among the female students of BA and MA courses in carpet, textile design and printing, art research, and handicrafts industry from the art faculty of Semnan university. A sample size of 102 students was chosen using a simple random sampling. SPSS software was used to analyze the data. The findings obtained from this study showed that women has a positive and important effect on the sustainable development in environmental issues and the increasing women’s awareness and capacities in this context is necessary. This research also indicates that the components of designed garment exception of the body characteristics are accepted by the statistical community. The results also show a positive relationship between the girls' awareness of the principles of sustainable clothing development and their satisfaction with the designs done.
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