چکیده:
جواهرات اسلامی بخشی از هنر و فرهنگ اسلامی است که متناسب با سرزمینی که اسلام در آن وارد شده است شکل گرفته، رشد کرده و بالنده شده است. در قرون نخست ورود اسلام به ایران، شهرهای نیشابور و گرگان (جرجان) از مهمترین مراکز فلزکاری اسلامی و ساخت جواهرات اسلامی بودند. از این مناطق نمونه هایی از انگشتری و گوشواره ها و گردنبند یافت شده است که تعدادی از آنها در موزه متروپولیتن نیویورک، جمع آوری شده است. هدف این پژوهش بررسی تکنیک های ساخت و تزیین جواهرات اسلامی در قرون اولیه ورود اسلام (قرون 9-11 م) و همچنین قرون نخست سده های میانه (11-13 م) موجود در موزه، به روش ترکیبی از توصیف تحلیل و تطبیق هست. نتایج حاکی از آن است که در دوران نخست اسلام در ایران، انگشتری ها و گوشواره ها دارای فرم های ساده بوده و در تکنیک ساخت و تزیین متاثر از صنعت جواهر سازی پیش از اسلام و روم می باشند. در قرون میانه در جواهرات به تدریج جهش بزرگی در فرم، تکنیک و تزیین ایجاد می شود. انگشتری های اسلامی از سده نخست به سمت میانه بسیار پیشرفته و مزین به نقوش حجمی هندسی، اسلیمی و موجوداتی همچون هارپی می شوند. گوشواره ها که در سال های نخست از یک حلقه و یک مهره تشکیل شده بودند، به تدریج به روش ملیله کاری (توری شکل) و یا با قرار گرفتن فرم-های بیست وجهی و دوازده وجهی منتظم و فرم های مثلث که شکل کروی را ایجاد می کند، ساخته شدند. این فرم ها یادآور گوشواره های بیزانسی است. روش های ساخت و تزیین اگرچه در قالب کلی تحت تاثیر فرهنگ بیزانس است، اما در جزییات تکنیکی و نقوش، ایرانی است. همچنین ایرانی ها در این زمان به تکنیک های ساخت خاصی دست پیدا کرده بودند که در دوره سلجوقی به اوج می رسد.
In line with the display of the power and wealth of the imperial dynasties and magnificent palaces, throughout the history of Iran, magnificent and valuable works have been created, from studying them in different dimensions, facts of the culture and art of this land can be clarified. The support of the court for jewelry making and gem-marking, using metals such as gold and silver and precious and semi-precious stones, turned this art into one of the noble arts. With the conquest of Iran by Muslims and the introduction of Islam to this land, Islamic culture overshadowed all fields, including jewelry making. Islamic jewelry is a part of Islamic art and culture that has been formed, grown and developed according to the land where Islam entered. The spirit of luxury and aestheticism of Iranians soon opened a new chapter in world art and culture, which today can be studied and studied under the title of Islamic art. In the first centuries of Islam entering Iran, the cities of Neishabur and Gorgan (Jorjan) were among the most important centers of Islamic metalworking and Islamic jewelry making. Examples of rings, earrings, and necklaces have been found from these areas, some of which have been collected in the Metropolitan Museum of New York. The study of Islamic jewelry in the first years of the introduction of Islam, which is the aim of this research, is unfortunately accompanied by a lack of sources and examples. The lack of samples obtained from this period and the similarity of these samples to the Sassanid and Byzantine samples, make the assumption that probably some of the works that are recorded today as Byzantine and Sassanid belong to the year be the first of Islam; gives strength But in the later years of the 10th-11th centuries, for unknown reasons, both the volume of samples increased and the works were more decorated and developed under the influence of Byzantine jewelry. The purpose of this research is to investigate the techniques of making and decorating Islamic jewelry in the early centuries of the arrival of Islam (9th-11th centuries) as well as the first centuries of the Middle Ages (11th-13th) in the museum, using a combination of description-analysis and comparison. be The main question of the research is what are the characteristics of the form and technique of making earrings and rings in the 9th-13th centuries? And basically, are these manufacturing techniques used in making this type of jewelry in Iran in such a way that by referring to it, the works can be considered as belonging to Iranian civilization, in this particular time period? The results indicate that, during the first period of Islam in Iran, rings and earrings had simple forms and were influenced by the pre-Islamic and Roman jewelry industry in their manufacturing and decoration techniques. In the Middle Ages, jewelry gradually made a big leap in form, technique, and decoration. From the first century to the middle, Islamic rings become much more advanced and decorated with geometric, Islamic volumetric motifs and creatures such as harpies. The earrings, which in the first years consisted of a ring and a bead, were gradually made using the tapestry-work method (lace-shaped) or by placing regular dodecahedral and dodecahedral forms and triangle forms. which creates a spherical shape, were made. These forms are reminiscent of Byzantine earrings. Although the construction and decoration methods are influenced by Byzantine culture in general, they are Iranian in technical details and motifs. Also, during this time, the Iranians had achieved special construction techniques, which reached their peak in the Seljuk period.